The first segment of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2014 belonged to the high street of which MK Nation stood the tallest but first lets dissect the luxury pret shows for Day 1 that packed some solid names opening with Mohsin Ali for Libas. We had hoped that some one would touch on interesting textures and fresh surface mediums and that is exactly what this young star gave us. His experimental embossed white on white sheer organza and silk silhouettes were a knock out styled brilliantly with decorated sneakers that brought the globally raging sporty glamour trend home. The styling may have been inspired by S/S’14 RTW and Couture Paris runways but then the designer had claimed the collection to reflect his version of Paris in Spring and we think he made it delightfully original. Mohsin also showcased some lemon, orange and pastel bead works but it was the romantic whites that left a lasting impression.
Mohsin Ali for Libas
Nickie Nina showcased ‘Katcha Taanka’, that employed a unique form of embroidery exclusive to the skilled rural women of Multan. Perhaps if we could have seen the pieces up close on the runway to examine the detailing we might have appreciated them more. Nickie Nina have historically tried to do too much in a single outfit or even a particular collection which often leaves audiences confused. There were definitely some pieces that stood out such as the grey and orange cropped pant suit and the oversize embroidered collars on the dresses. Over all the showcase was a definite improvement from previous years and here are some of our favorites.
Nickie Nina at PSFW 2014
Sania Maskatiya never ceases to run out of rabbits to pull out of her hat! ‘Kuamka’ definitely awakened audiences with its African inspired landscape imagery. The design house’s strong suit is not just their consistent stream of strikingly beautiful prints but also their intelligent composition of patterns into trendsetting cuts. For example the way a monochrome pattern dress cuts open to reveal a popping statement print or the flowing horizontal stripes on an egg sleeved kurta that reminds us of a lion. This season Sania translated that same cleverness into menswear with printed vests and inner linings against solid strong cuts that will be well received by the growing demographic of fashionable men looking for great fits.
Sania Maskatiya shows ‘Kuamka’
Along with Sania Maskatiya and Mohsin Ali, The House of Arsalan Iqbal held perhaps the best showcases of Day 1. Again an all white palette unfolded on the runway but this time in crisp voluminous shapes. Dramatic patiala shalwars and dhotis merged with cargo pockets and zippers accompanied by fitted androgynous shirts and jackets. This collection played fabulously with silhouettes and we especially loved the exaggerated use of buckles and rivets on the outfits. We can definitely see watered down versions of the collection as a commercial success. There’s no doubt about it, bringing on the collective creative genius of Fayez Agariah and Zurain Imam into the House of Arsalan Iqbal was a very smart decision!
Cargwar by The House of Arsalan Iqbal
Ali Xeeshan closed Day 1 with ‘Trouble’ that presented itself in the designer’s true theatrical style but revealed some absolutely stunning works of art inspired by the silver screen cinema of the 60’s and 70’s. While we don’t think an embellished ghaghra has any place on a luxury pret ramp, everything else was magnificent. Gold leaf ribbon detailing and Persian feroza with black diamonds danced on pencil skirts and structured draped shoulders. Torque and tassle accents were a charming feature and enhanced the richness of the ensembles. However beyond the scope of red carpets, we wonder how commercially relevant the lavish outfits will be off the runway.
Trouble by Ali Xeeshan
Stay tuned for coverage of the high street shows and our picks for the most promising Bank Al-Falah Rising Talents showcase. The complete collection red carpet pictures for Day 1 of PSFW 2014 will shortly be added to our Spotted Gallery.
Photography credit: Faisal Farooqui and the Team at Dragonfly
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