The reviews are in and with the exception of a few ill conceived collectives, the PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week 2013 (PLBW) was a testimony to the highly developed nature of our couture industry made up of both new incoming talent and veterans along with the artisans working tirelessly behind the scenes. However for the most part, showcased bridal wear leant undeniably toward traditional age old silhouettes with a few modern tweaks, resisting outright risks and unexplored territory. Some brave souls who ventured forward more than others included The House of Kamiar Rokni, Sania Maskatiya, Sana Safinaz, and Fahad Hussayn. When bursts of creativity appear on the ramp, pieces get absorbed into mindsets and evolve into trends. Let’s take stock of the trends born at PLBW 2013.
Deena Rahman, Asifa & Nabeel, HSY
50 Shades of Gold: One of the most glaringly popular colors on the ramp was gold. A multitude of rich gold shades painted fabrics in tissue, net, brocade, and penetrated handcrafted embellishments in gota, zardozi, mukesh, metallic sequins, and threadworks. From ethnic yellow gold gota to metallic and oxidized jewel shades, the message was clear; if you’re getting married or heading to a wedding make sure you go for the gold. Topping the list of colors chosen to compliment the golds were unassuming whites, velvety blacks, and mysterious midnight blues.
Elan by Kahdijah Shah, Sana Safinaz, Sania Maskatiya
Sharara Shananigans: Designers had plenty of fun with the vintage feminine sharara putting a clever palazzo spin on it and pairing it with separates such as cholis, short kurtis, and capes. The lehnga with legs made quite the comeback and was also absorbed into the beloved jumpsuit at Sana Safinaz. The versatile silhouette goes from Mehndi to reception depending on how you construct or deconstruct it with separates.
Sania Maskatiya, Misha Lakhani, Zara Shahjahan
Sheer Joy: Layered sheers sung beautifully but would have been incomplete without another trend that cloaked the best collectives; luxuriant net and romantic tissue fabrics. Voluminous lowers created out of the transparent medium floated majestically down the ramps at Elan, Zara Shahjahan and Misha Lakhani among others. Organza inserts and panels were equally charming at Fahad Hussayn and Asifa & Nabeel. For a distinct vintage glamour the netted fabrics in subdued hues of lime, ivory, topaz, and pastels were by far the prettiest and blessed the sheer layers with a divine grace.
Sana Safinaz, Elan, Asifa & Nabeel, Deena Rahman
Zara Shahjahan, Sana Safinaz, Nomi Ansari
Cutting Edge: Hemlines were knocked off cold with angarkhas, short kurtas, and the classic peshwas being hiked up above the knee like a breath of fresh air at Deena Rahman, Fahad Hussayn, Sana Safinaz, Nomi Ansari, and Zara Shahjahan among many others. Printed and brocade silk chooridars balanced the volume up top. Kurtas were constructed with minimal fuss and short slits with skinny cigarette pants. We sincerely hope this style catches on so that atl east when attending weddings, we can finally move on from the complicated weighty trails and exhausting panels.
Kamiar Rokni, Sana Safinaz, Ali Xeeshan, Fahad Hussayn
(L) The House of Kamiar Rokni, (R) Fahad Hussayn
Jacket Brigade: Modern outerwear separates over traditional silhouettes are rapidly becoming more natural and acceptable as the norm. Designers like Fahad Hussayn, Kamiar Rokni, Sania Maskatiya, Sana Safinaz, Misha Lakhani, Ali Xeeshan and Asifa & Nabeel did a tremendous job of involving cute bolero vests, collared blazers, longs sherwani capes and poncho jackets over saris, lehngas, and kurtas. It is the perfect tool to add interest and dimension to a creation allowing for both vintage and fusion elements. The separates allow certain individuality to the wearer who can construct and deconstruct at will.
Ali Xeeshan (Top), The House of Kamiar Rokni (Bottom Left), Nomi Ansari (Bottom right)
The House of Kamiar Rokni, Sadaf Malaterre
Color Blocked: The rise of separates paved a natural path for experimental color blocking as each piece picked an independent hue to compliment the other. The result was especially inspiring at the House of Kamiar Rokni as printed cummerbunds played with bright yellow oriental capes, fashion forward layering stood out at Sania Maskatiya, and at Ali Xeeshan where a kaleidoscope of colored threadworks danced on a single ghaghra paired with a solid contrast choli and dupattas. An explosion of color was witnessed at Nomi Ansari and Sana Safinaz taught us the art of color blocking with white and black for a strikingly one of a kind bridal. Shaded color blocking took a festive turn at Sadaf Malaterre with soft feminine lehgnas and saris.
Elan, Fahad Hussayn, Zara Shahjahan, Misha Lakhani
Reema showstopper for HSY
Midnight Blues: Deep blues were the color of choice at many of the showcases infusing a sense of royalty and majesty into the bridal ensembles at Fahad Hussayn, HSY, Misha Lakhani, Elan, Asifa & Nabeel, and Zara Shahjahan. In each case the hue was used with rich metallic gold fabric layers and embellishments for a spectacular effect. Shades of navy, indigo, and electric blue make for a stunning choice for the winter bridal season.
Sania Maskatiya, Misha Lakhani, Ali Xeeshan, Sadaf Malaterre, Elan by Khadijah Shah
Bollywood Cholis: Designers made extensive use of the Indian inspired choli with lehngas , and ghararas sometimes pushing the cropped blouse to its limit. Misha Lakhani used then elegantly as inners for sheer layers and Khadijah Shah employed them at their classic best with full skirts. Sania Maskatiya converted them to vests as well as in their traditional form while Ali Xeeshan applied them as sleek minimalist crop tops over his elaborately adorned ghararas.
Elan, Misha Lakhani, Asifa & Nabeel, Sana Safinaz
Sari Struck: Saris took the lead at many of the showcases most often in antique and metallic gold net, tissue, and textured silks. Awe inspiring versions of the sari lehnga were spotted at Sana Safinaz and Misha Lakhani while Elan worked with delicate detailed pastel drapes. Nomi Ansari, and Sadaf Malaterre opted for beautiful shaded and color blocked versions and Asifa & Nabeel did a wonderful attached short jacket blouse paired with a minimalist white sari.
Fahad Hussayn, Zara Shahjahan
Floral Finesse: Zara Shahjahan innovated wedding wear for the urban bride by merging statement floral printed lehngas, cholis, kurtas and chooridars with sheer tissue overlay and sparkling sequined and zardozi detailing imposed on to the motifs. The pockets on her gharara skirts were an exciting feature and the vintage English theme translated effortlessly ont o a contemporary eastern form. The successful interplay of print and embellishment for wedding wear was a major trendsetting accomplishment.
Photos courtesy: Faisal Farooqui & team at Dragonfly
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