Trend Alert: Sari Re-invented at India Fashion Week

by Secret Closet on March 30, 2013 in Trend Alert
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While we have always felt our designers at home to have a more developed aesthetic and an increasingly multi-dimensional approach to cut and craft, we must admit when it comes to the ‘sari’ we have a lot to learn from the other side. If you thought the sari was still simply a traditional silhouette prepare to be amazed by the twists and spins inserted into this timeless classic style by the new age of Indian designers that showcased at Lakmê India and at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Weeks held back to back this month. The diversity of cultures and ethnicities that make up the sub-continent gave way to a surge of innovative techniques, some of which we quite admire.

Chitrangada Singh for Gaurang Shah

Starting with the classic Indian Benarsi sari, Gaurang Shah’s shiny black and gold brocade with the reverse ‘pallu’ was a sensational showstopper worn by Bollywood actress Chitrangada Singh.  The designer used only traditional elements yet managed to infuse a current feel to the finished product.

Aircel Save the Tigers

Ever think of pairing your sari with a belt, furthermore an obi belt? After seeing the works of Anushka Khanna, Yogesh Chaudhry, and Vikram Phadnis (feature pic) we are quite in favor of the style. There is no outfit that the right belt can’t improve upon.

(L)Aarti Vijay Gupta, (M) Ashdeen,  (R) Prachi Desai for Shruti Sancheti,

Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta

( L) Dev R. Nil (R) Tarun Tahiliani; the bolero jacket sari

To package an intellectual look with a sari designers like Aarti Vijay Gupta, Shruti Sancheti, and Ashdeen paired the drape with various versions of a full sleeved jacket instead of the standard blouse. The result was sleek, crisp, and sophisticated. Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta incorporated a waistcoat layer while Tarun Tahiliani and Dev R. Nil used an open bolero for a younger working woman look. The Pallu twirled back around the neck like a scarf was a stroke of genius by Nil.

(L to R) Agnimitra Paul, Be You by Debarun, Farah & Firdos; the scarf knotted saris

Naeem Khan

There were some intricately complicated statement twists, handkerchief drapes, and scarf knots by designers Agnimitra Paul, Farah & Firdos, Be You by Debarun, and our personal favorite Naeem Khan. These worked beautifully with the graphic prints that adorned them. If these styles could be stitched as ready-to-wear we would love to see them reproduced at home.

(L) Kiran Uttam Ghosh (R) Soup by Sougat Paul; the short sari

Shivan and Narresh; the LBD sari

We first well in love with the short ‘dhoti’ version of the sari when we saw Anamika Khanna design it for Sonam Kapoor. The trend has caught on and there were newer exciting versions of the cut displayed by Soup by Sougat Paul whose tangerine pleated skirt and belted sea green top version without the pallu brought new meaning to the phrase ‘sari’. Kiran Uttam Ghosh combined the belt and the short sari over a fitted skirt while Shivan and Narresh gave birth to the modest bikini sari that could be the new ‘LBD’. Tarun Tahiliani innovatively draped an overlapping traditional chunri sari over dhoti style pants with the bolero jacket for a complete authentic Indian fusion look.

Masaba Gupta for Satya Paul; the suspenders sari

Tarun Tahiliani at LFW 2013; the Grecian drape sari

Masaba Gupta introduced suspenders to the sari drape using layered palazzo pants for Satya Paul true to her quirky style while at the Lakme off-site show; Tarun Tahiliani worked with a white Roman de-constructed Goddess like draped sari held in place with a chunky ethnic belt.

Farah & Firdos ; the long blouse

Long blouses are a trend to keep not just for an edgy twist but also for classic formals as demonstrated by Farah & Firdos with a gorgeous emerald and gold maple leaf brocade lehnga style sari with a cropped midriff one shoulder blouse.

Now you can safely say that a sari is befitting for any occasion from a wild weekend party to a quintessential wedding!

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